What Would You Do?

Had to replace an entire bathroom floor today due to water damage from run off from the shower which got under the sticky tiles and in to the subfloor and rotted it out along with a colony of black ants which seeked out the moisture. The bathrooms total area is 6’ deep by 5’ wide, floor area is 3x5.

I’m on a kick lately that repairs don’t have to be expensive to be decent so forth I issue this challenge… What would you do and how much would it cost to repair this damage.

You can view pictures of the before at:


Sorry the pics kinda suck, took them with the cell as an after thought.

I will follow up tomorrow with after pictures and a break down of what I did and the total cost.

Best wishes,

Ryan Needler

  1. remove all old flooring 1/2" under tub and cabinet and all exposed areas.

  2. “sister” any rotted joists with fresh wood glue and screwed on either side of damaged area.

  3. would place a 4x8x4 concrete pad near toilet and place a 2-3’4x4 post running from a joist and blok between joist and screw this in for deflection purposes.

  4. Place 3/4 green ply 1/2" under tub and cab inet and have a joint splitting the floor flange so that doesn’t need to be messed with. I would glue and screw this sheet(s)

  5. Glue down peal and stick squares.

  6. Caulk ALL wall, tub, cabinet contacts with the finish flooring.

  7. Repace toilet.

  8. Take a shower to clean up using the Mennen Body Wash left there

Cost in my world? $100 in material (includes new wax ring) 80-100 labor about a 4 hour job.

Post how this turns ourt Ryan…I’m sure you will McGyver something for 13 bucks and they pay you the laborLOL



Thanks for the response, I’m going to postpone what I did til sometime tomorrow… I want to see what others would have done in my place!

As Tony stated “No doubt there are other great ideas as well. I look forward to reading other comments.”

Best wishes,

Ryan Needler


I’m confused, (big suprise I know) do you pour a concrete pad under the toilet or is it just a block? And where do you put the 4x4?

Also never heard of green ply? I use “sturdy floor” OSB I think it is more moisture resistant and last way longer than plywood.

Most of the Mobile homes I have rehabbed I had to do the same repairs to the bathrooms.

My costs might be a bit higher as I don’t put back in stinky old toilets, as they usually need repair anyway.

Vacuum out old toilet bowl and tank with a old carpet shampoo vacuum(only thing this tool does), cut or break off toilet flange bolts (usually rusted in place). Drag toilet to dump pile.

Since you have to tear out the old floor, cause it’s too rotten, I put in a perimeter 2x4 nailer joist to hang the new floor on around the edges. I put a mark on the wall over the center of each joist to provide a guide for putting down a chalk line to drive screws into the ply (This helps me a lot to hit the joist on almost every screw). Before ripping out the floor I make a pattern with heavy paper of the floor (they never seem to be “square”. I don’t like taking multiple tries to get the new piece back in anymore. I use this pattern to cut the vinyl to size too.

I measure for the toilet flange and water supply line and write it on the wall where the trim will cover it. I cut off the old toilet flange and toss it. It’s often damaged and sometimes the wrong style. I now put in a 2x4 joist box around the toilet area to strengthen the floor so the toilet won’t rock and break the seal and leak.

I use 3/4 exterior plywood in wet areas for floor repair. I use exterior sheetrock screws to screw it down. I lube all screws with bar soap to aid driving them (usually found in the tub or sink).

After the new plywood floor is in I use Patch All to fill the screw dimples and sand flat. Vacuum a few times and put down vinyl flooring with glue.

I use 3x1 furring strips as floor trim/molding that I stain. I use a pneumatic stapler to put them on.

After this I caulk the floor and wall seam of the molding strips and all joints with white DAP caulk.

I install the new toilet flange and the new toilet and caulk around the toilet to floor joint except about 1" in the back.

Time to repair:

Rip out floor and toilet - 15-45 minutes

Cut and install perimeter nailers - 30 min

Cut and install plywood - 30 min

Cut and install vinyl - 60 min

Stain,cut,install and caulk trim - 45 min

Assemble and install new flange and toilet - 60 min

Total time 4 hours (every thing went well)ie, did not find bad plumbing when floor is ripped out, did not have to repair rotted floor joists or fix hole in wall hidden by toilet. PVC glue can not dried out, cord on saws-all not cut, caulk gun in tool box…

This does not count time for tool setup, shopping for material or clean up and dump run

Material costs:

New economy toilet and seat $55

Wax ring $ .99

Toilet flange and 3" coupler$ 6.00

2x4 studs $ 1.19 ea

4x8 x 3/4 ply $25

Vinyl and glue $12.00 @7.25 yard

3" furring strips $ 6.60 @1.65 ea 4 needed

3 1/2" & 2" screws $ 6.50 @3.25 pound

DAP caulk $ 1.99 1 tube

TOTAL Material $116.48

Swear words free, but bad Karma…

link to bathroom rehab photos… sorry no in progress photos…



I have had very bad results using it. Green is exterior grade plywood…a sheet two weeks ago cost me 40 bucks… here it is green on the edges hence the name,I love this stuff but it is spendy.

I use a concrete pad and place the 4x4 vertically near a joist and block between joists and glue and screw this in place. 3 years ago I had a 450 pound lady go thru the floor while on toilet, Fire dept did over 1K damage to unit and i paid 16K in medical bills. She needed 44 stitches in leg and knee and was in very bad back pain for 5 months. I paid these bills as they came in…I had insurance, but never used it…save it for the huge claims to keep premiums down and i just felt terrible about the whole thing. There was a spongy floor near the toilet, but most older mobiles have this anyway.

This post gives vertical strength to the toilet area and costs less than 6 bucks…most older mobiles are VERY weak point loading wise near toilets and tubs (wet areas).


Now I’m pickin up what your layin down Greg. The block is under the 4x4 on the ground, duh.

At first I was poo pooing Scott’s idea on replacing the toilet but the more I think about it, it makes sense. yeah they are 10 wides. I will be starting a low budget rehab in the next couple weeks.


Ryan, Tony, Scott, now me have all done well with these small Parks. They really are cash cows.

I would buy 5 or more more this year if the price was right…they are RARE here in florida


I wish there had been more responses but life happens

Pardon me Greg, but I think you are going overboard.

Admittedly you had a terrible experience but that floor was soft/rotten.

If a new home is produced with 3/4 particleboard and expected to support the weight of its inhabitants, I have to think our repairs with 5/8 or 3/4 plywood only exceeds manufacturer specs.

Is a manufacturer or rehabber of ANY home liable for supporting a 450 - 580 lb or more person (yes, they have been my patients)? At what point does the owner of this weight take some responsibility for it?


Don Congrats on the park! They can be a lot of fun even though they can drive ya nuts at times… wanted to drop you a quick note on one of the first changes I do with a new park regarding bathrooms.

IF you are not submetered I highly recommend that you replace every flapper and shower head (low flow) in the park, cost about $6 each for both x 12 homes x1.5 bath average your looking at $108 as a one time expense. Spending this money on month one I’ve seen real gains of up to 50% savings on my monthly water bills, on an 8 unit I literally saved $125 the month following installation. It’s fast easy and saves big bucks that go directly to the bottom line.

The only time it makes sense for me to replace toilets is if it’s cracked or has one of the old slide flappers which cost around $40 to replace with a full gut kit. Toilet parts are cheap and tend to be long lasting, Again this is a personal preference item for the most part.

Best wishes,

Ryan Needler

When she wentthru the floor two semi rotten floor joists broke also. This post trick gives real vertical support in a weak are of a mobile.

It started out me paying transport and emergency room care (about 6K) then there were pt bills and prescriptions can you spell Vikadin? LOL

Her injury was partly my fault…the fire chief (a friend) told me so and I believe it. A jury here in FL would have found me culpable beyond a doubt and I am just glad it is over.

It probably is a bit overkill…but I look at it as 6 buck peace of mind…

Regards Doc,


The sewer/water in this park are a MAJOR expense. $27.50 per month per unit + $6 per 1000 for sewer. $9 per month (whole park) and $2.50 per 1000 for water. So your idea to replace flappers and shower heads will be at the top of our to do list. These homes are at the low end of the rent scale so we have to be extra vigilant with expenses/rehabs.

On another note my realtor just called with 2 forclosure parks a 40 and a 41 unit. The market is breaking loose here.

Great idea Ryan!

Never even thought of that. The park that I’m under contract with has 88 occupied units and no sub-meters (hope to change that in the next year or two).

But none are park rentals. What would you experienced folks think of offering to change them for free to all lot renters and lease/option owners? Do I open up a can of worms if we do the work then they start having issues with water leaks or toilets? Will the risk be worth the savings in water?

Again, gold nuggets are here to find. Thanks,

Rick ,

My personal stance is that we extend a one time service to all residents when we buy a property, we replace all toilet flappers and shower heads to make sure there are no major leaks in order to reduce water consumption and there by avoiding massive rent increases to cover the cost of wasted water. Most home owners are tickled that you are putting something in their home for free, have to date only had one that refused. A lot of time owners will state they can put them on. (don’t want us in their home) Best guess 50% actually make it up but it still adds up quickly.

In a nut shell if I can spend $6 dollars or so once or even every few years on someone else’s home in order to decrease my monthly outlay by an average of $5-10 I think it’s a great deal for both party’s! Even if you plan on sub-metering I truly believe this is a good interim step with an almost immediate payback from my experiences.

Best wishes,

Ryan Needler

and clearly stated …thanks.

Here in FL and parts of GA water is becoming a real expensive item on a balalce sheet. By implenenting your idea, we save money and a scarce resource…win/win.


Maybe you could give them the new items and say if I do not get the old ones back with next months rent your rent will go up $10!

My only concern with letting them install these would be that they would not do it correct and make things even worse. For me I would say we install or just leave it alone like it is.

If they are park owned homes it is obvious and just say that it is going to be done. For owner occs it would be a little tougher. One idea is you could do a package of giving say a fire kit (smoke alarms and fire extenguishers) and the water kit install at the same time. That way it is even more enticing a package and most should do it. This is a little more expensive but would make for better piece of mind and could possibly mean some discount on insurance for the fire kit part.

For a new park owner it would also let you get a good feel for the tenants fast. If they refuse this then it says a lot about them. If they accept you would be able to go in the home under a valid pretense and also learn a lot about them.

Just my 2 cents,


I think your idea and the others are wonderful.

You might consider one alteration to your plan. I shop at the Habitat for Humanity ReStores whenever I can. At the one near me, I purchase used toilets that look new for $10.00 complete with the guts. Kohler and others are always available. A new sink is $10 with the faucet attached.

I learn so much from the forum, thanks for all the advice.

By the way, I am changing my name to SandiNC.

Looking forward to seeing everyone at MOM.